Each Cook Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.

Robert Thompson
Robert Thompson

A tech journalist and business analyst with over a decade of experience covering digital transformation and startup ecosystems.